Step into a Cairo taxi, circa mid-2000s, and listen to the rumblings of revolution. I can’t remember how this book appeared on my radar — only that it happened recently, and that I bought a used copy almost immediately — but proved a quick and absorbing read. The setup is simple: Khamissi is a journalist who depends on taxis to get around Cairo, and in the mid-2000s he began taking notes on his conversations with cabbies, and here presents them in fictionalized dialogues. He notes from the start that despite the fact that Cairo has thousands of cabs, the life is typically a losing proposition for the drivers, especially those who are renting the car from someone else. This quickly becomes apparent to the reader, as well: we find cabbies who have been driving for twelve-hour stints or more, simply because the bills are due and they’re desperate, as well as drivers who engage in other opportunities (gambling, investing, etc) in hopes of increasing their income. Oddly, there are no (or were none, it’s been fifteen years) standardized rates, so fares were a subject of confrontational haggling. (And not the near-absurd kind created by tar’rouf in Iran.)
A frequent theme of the discussions is geopolitics: at the time, the terror-war had expanded into Iraq, something none of the drivers were happy about. They regarded Hussein as a friend of Egyptians, because he protected Egyptian nationals within Iraq, and also resented Mubarak’s relations with DC, which used financial ‘assistance’ to the government (two billion a year) to enlist its cooperation (i.e. play nice with Israel). One driver went on such a rant about it that he’d be welcome company at a libertarian pub crawl. Egyptians appear to be savvier about the stupidity of DC’s mideastern meddling than the entirety of the American electorate, calling out the fact that DC is giving money to rival factions, one of which actively funds terrorist activity against it.) Another common issue is endemic corruption, especially from local cops, and people’s utter frustration with the government. One man, though not an observant Muslim, wants to put the Muslim Brotherhood in charge simply because nothing else has worked. (Readers who followed Egypt in the Arab Spring may remember that the Brotherhood rose to power but were ousted by the military in 2013.) The collection isn’t all politics, though: the cabbies range from cynics to true believers, whether the subject be Egypt’s football scene or religion. One recollects with amusement how an extremely modest woman in a veil and hijab changed clothes inside his cab, morphing into a club worker in revealing clothes: he was so distracted he nearly rammed a car at a redlight. Another announced to the author that he was a smuggler, helping bring in untaxed cigarettes into the country. Overall, this is an interesting ‘slice of life’ kind of book.
Related:
Taxi! A Social History of the New York Cab Driver, Graham Russell
Hack: How I Stopped Worrying About What to do with my Life and Started Driving a Yellow Cab, Melissa Plaut
Mean Streets: Confessions of a Nightime Taxi Driver, Peter McSherry